What a day!

Wednesday.

A normal day turned into a series of new experiences.

The Visa Card was used at the local ATM, and went OK except No receipt and NO money. Since we leave in a couple of days we wanted to be sure our money hadn't just 'disappeared', and went into the CRDB head office in Mbeya.

We had to catch the dallah dallah, and got one at Soweto, no problems. Our packed vehicle got to the next stop, meandered along another couple of hundred metres, went past the market and pulled over. The conductor and driver hopped out and wandered over to another bus. We weren't sure what was happening, neither was anyone else. After about 5 minutes people started getting off. What was going on? Turns out he hadn't actually complete his last run to the far point at Uyoli, and had headed back into town, picking up passengers. The driver was thought he was going to get caught, so just stopped. I assume he was going out to Uyoli after we left. Who knows, but there were no angry customers, we all just got off and caught another dallah dallah.

OK, so we all pile in another vehicle, which has to make a stop at the petrol station just after we got on!

On the way home dallah dallah were scarce (unusual), and when the first ones arrived they were swamped. We got on the third one, but didn't really listen to the 'call'. When our packed dallahdallah (we only got up to 26 people in the battered 15 seat Toyota Hi Ace) got to Manjelwa I was standing up. I moved and sat in a vacated seat as many people, everyone else but me, were getting off. I had thought it strange that the bus did a U-turn at the bus stop. When the 'conductor', who had not spoken a word of English to this point, looked at me and said firmly (but politely) "My father, THIS is Manjelwa" I got the message - and got off.

We walked the rest of the way.

It didn't happen on Wednesday, but I finally got a good picture of maandasi being cooked in the food hall. The chappati lady makes them at about 5.30 pm each night, but got one of her helpers to work at the stove for my photo.

Dallah dallah delights

There are a few ways to get to Jambiani, but only one road. About 45 minutes by taxi (US$45), up to twice as long by minibus (US$10) or by dallah dallah (US$1.50) and you arrive when you get there. We chose dallah dallah. It was worth the 2000 Tsh we paid for the two and a half hour trip. Great value, great experience.

We were the two white faces, and on the way saw 'suburban' Stonetown, very different to the old town. Shops and market stalls lined the road as we headed out, and there was a market area further out that was a focus of much activity. Periodically we stopped along the way to pick up passengers, or goods. One such passenger was 'Eddie' (short for Mohammed) who practised his English as he responded to my questions, and I to his. At Paje we turned off the main road (quite a good bitumen road) and began the drive down Jambiani' high street. By this time there was little room in the dallah dallah, but gradually people got off, and at each of the little shops along the way goods were delivered and the load lightened. A creaking groaning dallah dallah on a bumpy road may not be comfortable, but it is interesting.

Eventually we arrived at Shehe Bungalows, our home for the next two nights. Task one - find the office! We went right, should have gone left! It was about 20 minutes before we were able to find the right spot. From there 'hukana mutata' - no problems. Just after 1.00 pm we were in a delightful bungalow on the beach front, with hot and cold running water and a small refrigerator - more than we expected for the budget price US$40 per night for the two of us.

While in Jambiani we walked the beach and the main street, observed life in the village, chatted with locals and visitors, accessed the internet, ate the locally prepared food, swam in the Indian Ocean (when the tide was in), were shown the 'dhouw's used by local fishermen and 'tour' operators, were offered snorkelling or sailing trips and a variety of other opportunities. While cheap (10,000 Tsh p.p.) we did not venture out to sea. We did have a tour of the local clinic, and a good chat with Mussa, a local store operator and businessman. He said he spoke a little English, but was quite fluent - and spoke French and some German. In a country where teaching of English on begins at secondary school (and most do not get to secondary school) this was not much short of amazing. He was one who appreciated the need to learn English, and was teaching it to his children as well.
What did I learn? It's hot in Zanzibar. It is not natural to move quickly in such heat, so relax and take your time.There are no welfare payments in Tanzania - and you have to survive. People will do what they need to in order to survive. Tourists are a source of income for many people. Some will take advantage of your ignorance, others will sell you what you need and make whatever profit they can.The people were friendly and welcoming...it was a nice place to be!

By the way - there was never any hot water, the water sometimes did not work, and the refrigerator never worked (we had not expected one anyway). We were far better off than most of the villagers who have no reticulated water supply, and may not have electricity.

Our stay was over almost before it began, but it was relaxing time. On Saturday we went back to Stonetown to catch the ferry - and this time we took a minibus.