South and East

We managed 3000 kilometers in one week across the Nullarbor, but opted to cruise across to Melbourne at a more leisurely pace.

One night at Parnka Point on the Coorong allowed us to glimpse some of the local wildlife. Blue-tongue lizards (about four in the space of 500 metres), a bearded dragon, a snake, an echnida and some emus were all at home in this little section of park where we camped.

Much is being made of the condition of the Coorong which is suffering because no water is flowing in from the Murray. It is a fascinating area, with a mixture of salt and river water combining in a unique lake area that is but one big sand dune back from the oceans and Lacepede Bay.

Further down the coast are the southern ports - Kingston, Robe and Beachport. Despite travelling the road before I cannot recall stopping and visiting any of these places. No doubt they were all once bustling fishing villages and shipping ports, but now are mainly tourist and holiday destinations.
Each of them has much to offer the visitor who wants to wind down near the sea. From my perspective each of the centres has a golf course, so any of the three would be great places to stay! Kingston also has a good bike path, and the original Cape Jaffa lighthouse sits as a museum feature near the foreshore.


We enjoyed our brief visit, and will look to return for a more extended stay at some stage in the future.

Crossing the Nullarbor

Nullarbor Links shaped the timing of our trip across this part of Australia, but we did check out some of the scenery along the way.

The Roe Plains are an interesting variation in the Landscape between Madura and Eucla (or Eucla and Madura if you come from the east. As you travel along those plains look out for the boot tree, the CD tree and the clothes tree. Not part of the natural landscape the evidence of human activity adds variety, and of course, if you need another pair of shoes, a CD or some item of clothing the fruit of those trees might come in handy!

The spectacular Bunda Cliffs that look out over the great Australian Bight.


At times these views are just a kilometre or from the highway and are worth checking out.


Just past Nullarbor Roadhouse is the head of the bight.
We were a month late for the whales that rest there on their journey south, but it was still interesting to call in. No whales, but on the way out we spotted a group of feral camels making their way east.
For those familiar with the Nativity story the wise men were missing, and the camels were heading the wrong way.

And then there are the Nullarbor plains. We crossed the Nullarbor, but the actual Nullarbor plains are only a very small portion of the trip.

The treeless plains do not take your breath away, but they are impressive in their own way.

And of course there are other signs along the way.

Travelling in daylight hours meant that we did not see any wombats, and only just caught a glimpse of the odd kangaroo. You already know about the camels.

For us the travelling part of the journey is coming to an end. Now it is back to touch base with family, attend a few weddings, and prepare for Christmas. Thoughts are turning slowly to next year, and there is some time available for other things as well.

Nullarbor Golf Wrap Up

Four days, and forty degree heat. 18 holes and 1395 kilometres. It was done. All that remained was mathematics (add up the score) and go to the Ceduna Visitor Centre for my certificate.

Disappointed? Yes. Double and triple bogeys meant a card that did not reflect my idea of a good score.

Happy - yes! I had completed the course. Card Number 377 was complete.

Off to the visitor centre and I was asked my score. It goes on the certificate. How embarrassing. The certificate will include my score.



"How did you go?" was the question.
"It was a lot of fun, an experience," came my reply, "but lost balls, penalties and a bad three putt didn't help my score."
"So what was your score, it goes on your certificate."
"88" was my response.
"Wow, that's terrific! This is first certificate I have done for a score less than 100."
Another voice from behind the counter added "...and some of them have been almost twice that."

Certificate in hand we left the air-conditioned visitor centre and headed out into the heat again.

The challenge had been faced; Nullarbor Golf Links had been conquered. Well, conquered is not really the right word. We had survived the heat, the dust and the distance. We had endured ants, march flies (they sting), three corner jacks and the flies at Eucla. I had lost two golf balls - and we found seven. It had still been a lot of fun, and added much needed variety to 1400 kilometres of our 2900 trip to Adelaide.

Would I play Nullarbor Links again? Yes ,Yes, Yes! Maybe I would try for some cooler weather next time. It was a little warm, unusually hot in fact, as we crossed the Nullarbor early in November 2009.
Would my faithful photographer document the event? Seems I need a golfing partner next time; she is not planning to do it again.

Nullarbor Links is not Kingston Heath. They will never hold the Australian Masters on this course, but it is an experience not to be missed. Next time you head across the Nullarbor, take your golf clubs.

Day 4 The Last Leg!

After a frustrating Day 3 the end was near. Days 2 and 3 had been hot (the weather, not the golf) and another 40 degrees plus awaited. Only four holes to go.

Nundroo was first on the list. Ten o'clock in the morning and the temperature was climbing. Beth needed a little encouragement to walk the 600 metres to the tee, but the faithful photographer was still determined to see the course to the end. Up and over the hill we went - into the never never! This time there was a slight change of strategy. Beth was going to try and watch the ball as well as take photos. Clever!

The challenge here was the fairway. First the drive had to find the fairway, and then it had to bounce straight. Striding confidently to the tee I struck the ball a mighty blow. Moments later I proceeded up the fairway before turning right into the long grass to look for my ball.

My heart sank as I considered yet another lost ball. Fortunately the grass was not as thick as it appeared. Discretion was called for!

Tiger Woods might play a long iron or fairway metal (a.k.a. a fairway wood) for his second on such a hole. Not me. I played a pitching wedge.

Tiger Woods would go for the green on such a hole. Not me. I was just trying to find the fairway.

The theory on a long hole is driver, long iron, pitch then putt. My practice was becoming driver, pitch, long iron, chip, then putt. When things went bad it was driver, pitch, long iron, pitch, short iron, pitch, chip then putt, and putt again!!!!

At Nundroo I managed to finish my mixed up order with a one putt and a par 5, to my great relief. After the hotel we enjoyed great coffee in a cool roadhouse. Need to go? They have the best kept toilet facilities my caddy had seen throughout this experience.

Hole 16 (counting down here....only 2 more to go) was a short uphill par 4 with a few trees in the way. I found one tree back left of the green, but a one putt saved the day.

My course notes said that Penong hole was on the golf course. Conversation at the roadhouse confirmed that it was on the site of the golf course, which had not been visible for about 20 years.



Last stop Ceduna. This time the holes were on the local golf course and the territory looked less frightening. Two short approach shots meant a good putt was needed to save par before headed to Denial Bay, the name of my last hole.

Unfortunately it was into the wind, and my photographer captured the tragedy as it unfolded. To avoid a possible out of bounds on the right I went left... and then managed to mess up 3 of the next five shots. The last of these was only about 15 centimetres, and that I got right.

Next post - the wrap up!