Saturday, September 19, 2009

What a Kracker - Karijini!

What an amazing place is Karijini National Park!

Located in the Pilbara it doesn't look much as you drive through the barren country side. Hills rise alongside the road, and the red iron rich rocks of the Pilbara poke through the thin topsoil. The effect is fascinating.... and then you set up camp in the middle of this uninteresting scrub. Just don't go wandering around in the middle of the night.

About a kilometre from our campsite was Dales Gorge, and within an hour there were five more gorges that we could explore. Our plan was three nights, we stayed four. No power, no shower - but it was worth it. Every day we swam - after climbing or clambering down a gorge, walking a kilometre or two, and then finding a secluded pool.

The walks are graded - from 1 to 6. A six means abseiling, ropes, and a qualified guide. We stopped before we got to those. A four meant climbing across stepped rock faces or through narrow alley ways, and probably wading or swimming through some water. We did that many times in the four days.





Too many photos were taken - and the best of them do not do justice to these majestic canyons on the Pilbara.

Day One was an afternoon at Dales Gorge. As with all the gorges the climb down was fairly steep, and then the oases - Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool. Cool clear spring water flowed gently and invitingly through the gorge. Waterfalls created plunge pools that demanded you have a quick dip - and we did.

Day Two was two gorges - Hancock and Weano. We tackled Hancock first - climb down the slopes, then the ladder, wade through the water, then swim or climb, then the spider walk, and eventually Kermits Pool.

But wait there's more!
Darn- it's a level six and getting there may have been easy (a natural water slide) but getting back required ropes.

We were not alone on this trek as at least two groups were in the same gorge. It was surprising - and a little scary - to see a group of adventurous seniors clambering over the rocks (see picture above at left and imagine the seniors on the rocks on the right of the water) on their way to the spider walk. And of course as we planned to come back there was a group of ten young adults coming down to Kermits Pool. They almost need the traffic management crew down their with the portable traffic lights.

Weano was next. We could have gone into the handrail pool but without others around, a couple of old fogies who have already tramped far enough figured the view would have to do. It was much easier, and less exciting than Hancock, but still magnificent.



Day Three and we upped the ante visiting three gorges.
After Joffre and Knox Gorges we were just about done - and time was getting away - but Kalamina was a pretty gorge, and easy to access, so we took a quick stroll into the gorge and looked for the rock arches. We got there, and back, before sunset. (probably the easiest and least interesting of the gorges). Joffre didn't really invite you to walk very far, but the climb down to the plunge pool was a challenging one. Knox was different as we scrambled down the scree slope and then wandered through another amazing gorge.

Day Four and the bodies were sore. No need to take the car as we had an easy day, allowing our newly found muscles a bit of respite. We walked/climbed down into Dales. This time we swam in Circular Pool (an amazing plunge pool that seems to be at the commencement of this branch of Dales), before making our way through to Fortescue Falls and the Fern Pool again.

Power, creativity, beauty, peace, and amazing variety are all there - and there is still more to explore.

Karijini National Park is one of Australia's gems and is well worth exploring - just make sure you do it during the dry season when the water flows are from natural springs.