Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Weekly worship - the Tin Tabernacle

Today we worshipped at Kipunguni, a little outpost alongside the Julius Nyerere International Airport, Dar Es Salaam. A 30 minute trip (four wheel drive needed) saw us there early for worship at a building nicknamed the "tin tabernacle". We came as strangers, and were warmly welcomed into their company.

Some tunes were familiar ("How Great Thou Art", "Down at the cross where my Savour Died") but the Swahili words were new to us. I think we understood the message. We also heard some new songs, and sang along when we could.


The message was clear - and we were specifically included by the occasional words in English to make sure we knew what it was about. The week before Psalm 23 was read - here it was the basis of the message. The week before Matt 11:28 was part of the message text - today it was used as part of the message. A different part of the world, yet the same Word was heard.

The kids were remarkable - throughout meeting they gave good attention, sat quietly on the wooden benches, and were very well behaved.

Kipunguni is probably a little like many other areas around Dar Es Salaam - and those who live there survive. Some would have jobs; some (most) would not. After worship with about six or seven other adults and about the same number of children these gracious people bought sodas (soft drink) for us. We were just visitors who made little contribution to worship but someone provided these 'gifts' for us. After talking with them, and learning a little more of their stories and their families we stand amazed at their faith, faithfulness and gracious hospitality.


"The Lord is my shepherd...he prepares a table before me..." We were not in the presence of enemies by in the company of new friends graciously provided for us out of their limited resources. It is they who rely daily on God to prepare a table for them - and they shared their provision with us. We were honoured, and humbled, in sharing worship at the "tin tabernacle".

Dallah dallah delights 2 - and more!

Not sure why, but on the ferry back to Dar the movie was 'Shaft'. It started, and then we saw some Azam Marine promos, then back to the movie. Oops - we saw Chuck Norris in 'Missing in Action'. It ended just before the ferry approached the dock at Dar - and 'Shaft' resumed from where it had left off. Go figure!

Our next dallah dallah ride was shorter - this time from the ferry terminal to The Salvation Army compound - 300 Tsh each (A$ 0.40). It was a Toyota Coaster and we were the last ones in. For the first three or four stops I had to get out so others could get off! Up close and personal - absolutely.

Our dinner plans for that evening had to be changed - so we ate at the hostel dining room. We were very late ordering and were left with the basic meal of ugali (a corn porridge), beans and cabbage. It was tasty and very filling. We were disappointed that the original plans needed to be changed, but not disappointed to experience this simple meal.

Sunday we went to church with Joy at the 'tin tabernacle', took some rest, and then ate out at the BBQ grill in the evening. It was a good way to conclude our time in Dar.

In conversations with those who hosted us and those we met we learned much about life in Tanzania, and the challenges faced by individuals and by organisations such as The Salvation Army.
Giles Bolton ("Aid and Other dirty business") noted that poverty means you have fewer choices. The choice of the rich is what do we have to eat, and then which movie do we see. The choice for the poor may be do we eat today, or have money for our child's school expenses.
The Salvation Army in Tanzania cannot meet all the needs it faces. The issue will always be how do we use the money we have to make the biggest difference. Such choices are hard for there are always worthy cases and worthy causes will not be resourced.

Dallah dallah delights






There are a few ways to get to Jambiani, but only one road. About 45 minutes by taxi (US$45), up to twice as long by minibus (US$10) or by dallah dallah (US$1.50) and you arrive when you get there. We chose dallah dallah. It was worth the 2000 Tsh we paid for the two and a half hour trip. Great value, great experience.


We were the two white faces, and on the way saw 'suburban' Stonetown, very different to the old town. Shops and market stalls lined the road as we headed out, and there was a market area further out that was a focus of much activity. Periodically we stopped along the way to pick up passengers, or goods. One such passenger was 'Eddie' (short for Mohammed) who practised his English as he responded to my questions, and I to his. At Paje we turned off the main road (quite a good bitumen road) and began the drive down Jambiani' high street. By this time there was little room in the dallah dallah, but gradually people got off, and at each of the little shops along the way goods were delivered and the load lightened. A creaking groaning dallah dallah on a bumpy road may not be comfortable, but it is interesting.




Eventually we arrived at Shehe Bungalows, our home for the next two nights. Task one - find the office! We went right, should have gone left! It was about 20 minutes before we were able to find the right spot. From there 'hukana mutata' - no problems. Just after 1.00 pm we were in a delightful bungalow on the beach front, with hot and cold running water and a small refrigerator - more than we expected for the budget price US$40 per night for the two of us.



While in Jambiani we walked the beach and the main street, observed life in the village, chatted with locals and visitors, accessed the internet, ate the locally prepared food, swam in the Indian Ocean (when the tide was in), were shown the 'dhouw's used by local fishermen and 'tour' operators, were offered snorkelling or sailing trips and a variety of other opportunities. While cheap (10,000 Tsh p.p.) we did not venture out to sea. We did have a tour of the local clinic, and a good chat with Mussa, a local store operator and businessman. He said he spoke a little English, but was quite fluent - and spoke French and some German. In a country where teaching of English on begins at secondary school (and most do not get to secondary school) this was not much short of amazing. He was one who appreciated the need to learn English, and was teaching it to his children as well.
What did I learn? It's hot in Zanzibar. It is not natural to move quickly in such heat, so relax and take your time.There are no welfare payments in Tanzania - and you have to survive. People will do what they need to in order to survive. Tourists are a source of income for many people. Some will take advantage of your ignorance, others will sell you what you need and make whatever profit they can.The people were friendly and welcoming...it was a nice place to be!


By the way - there was never any hot water, the water sometimes did not work, and the refrigerator never worked (we had not expected one anyway). We were far better off than most of the villagers who have no reticulated water supply, and may not have electricity.


Our stay was over almost before it began, but it was relaxing time. On Saturday we went back to Stonetown to catch the ferry - and this time we took a minibus.

Dar and Zanzibar

Overnight in Dar and then to the ferry for a 10 a.m. departure. Our first few hours in Dar were just enough to get some sleep, meet a few people, attend chapel at The Salvation Army compound and find the ferry.

At 1.00pm we were on Zanzibar. Now Zanzibar is part of Tanzania, yet we filled out the obligatory immigration form (blue at the airport, yellow in Zanzibar) and showed our passports.

Tourism is a key industry on this island. Stonetown is the port of arrival and if you are not part of it officially you become part of it to survive. From the time you step past immigration you are offered goods, taxis, guides, or tours. We were quickly 'guided' to where we wanted to go. A tip for unprepared travellers - make sure you have some small denomination local currency on hand! I learned the hard way! Oh - and insist that accommodation places honour their bookings. Beth was very good at ensuring we got what had been promised, and our 'helpful guide' did not have opportunity to assist in finding alternative accommodation (and earning himself some 'commission' in the process).

Stonetown is a fascinating old city - the Venice of Africa (minus the canals). The people are very friendly - "Jambo" being the greeting most often exchanged. A walk around/through the city and many "Jambo's", offers of taxis, tours and sunglasses later we returned to St Monica's Guesthouse for a little respite and rest for our legs. Dinner was at Mercury's restaurant (Freddie Mercury, late of "Queen" circa 1970's had a home in Stonetown and started the restaurant) - a nice fish dish for only 11,000 Tsh - a little less than A$15 each.

Our next stop was Jambiani, a little fishing village on the east coast.