Sunday, August 16, 2009

Secrets to Keep


The next day was anti-climactic, with a few walks near the Gregory National Park, before a night at Big Horse Campground. There we caught up with our friends from Sullivans Creek - and spent a bit of time reminiscing over the events of the night and exchanging a few more details...... fortunately the night had no such dramas and we slept well.


Keep River National Park is one of the smallest parks in the territory, and a nice little spot about 20 kms off the main road. More walks, two more snakes spotted, and some magnificent scenery in this 'transition' area.

Now the rangers and wildlife experts tell you that snakes will hide when the hear us coming, and move to sanctuary. The first one did...the second one, a much larger black snake, seemed like he wanted to check out the tourists! I was walking behind Beth and was alongside this reptile before I spotted him sunning himself alongside the path - a whole 50 cms from where we had both walked. As Beth and I stopped a couple of meters away to check him out he thought he might just check us out! We kept on walking backwards for a while, as he weaved across the path watching us. None of my pictures of this snake are actually in focus, and I know why. Neither I nor the snake were still enough for long enough!

O what a night!

A bonfire, a series of 'midnight flits', and a visit from some of NT's finest This all took place at a peaceful roadside stop called Sullivans Creek, a nice little roadside stop run by NT Parks.

At dusk there were eight vans or campers at the stop, and we retired early, as is usual on the road. A few hours later we were awakened by some of our fellow travellers - who let us know they were moving on. One van had already left, and a couple of German tourists in a little hired Getz went as well. They all a little were scared! - for themselves and for their equipment.

While we had slept peacefully one fellow (a lone traveller) had continued drinking, and then began to behave in a bizarre fashion. He had prowled the campsite and then progressed to lighting fires, adding a dash of petrol, and enjoying the result. Those parked nearby took the decision that discretion was the better part of valour.

By the time I emerged from the van he had fires on each side of his own vehicle - a Ford van. Soon the fires had ignited the front of the guys own vehicle and nothing that was going to douse the flames. No reticulated water here, and the nearest fire brigade was about 180 kms away, and it was close to midnight.

Fortunately the night was still, and the fire did not go more than just a few feet. My next hour and a half was spent watching it burn, and chatting to an intoxicated owner who did not really seem to comprehend what had just taken place. Some aspects of the conversation were quite memorable - and quite sad as well.
I guess it was years of experience dealing with people with problems, but I never felt threatened. Then again I had not been around before he started lighting the fires, and our van was at least 75 metres from his, not just next door.

As we watched and talked the other campers all departed and it looked like I was going to be watching over this guy all night. He would not rest, and decided to walk to the next stop. Now I was worried that some poor truckie would find this guy in his headlights before he had time to stop! Aside from that Beth and I felt a little more at ease, but still not comfortable enough to sleep. We passed the time watching the fire die, and chatting quietly under the stars.

Just after 2 a.m. a vehicle stopped down the road some distance, and we could hear voices. Shortly after the police van rolled into Sullivans Creek, with our friend in the cage and two polite officers going about their duty.

Forty five minutes later they were on their way to Katherine to find some suitable accommodation for their guest, and maybe to get some rest themselves. It was at least another 45 minutes before we got back to sleep.

In the morning our policemen friends dropped in and tidied up the scene, before heading to their station at Timber Creek.


O what a night!


We were grateful that the first campers to leave took the time to call the police, that the police responded, and we were able to get a few hours sleep before the sun signalled the start of another day - hopefully with less drama than the last one.

Back to Katherine

To head west from Darwin you have to head south.

Time to shop, refuel, and find a spot to watch the footy...Crows vs. Collingwood. Aagh! Not enough goals when the pressure was on. Add to that a loss by Geelong, a last minute free and goal that gave the Lions a draw and the Crows are now looking squarely at an elimination final for the third year in a row!



Even in the dry it gets a bit warm here, so the next morning was the time to explore. A good walk to the bottom of the second gorge next day (it must have been about 8 kilometres or more) eliminated some of my pent up frustration - and we saw our first live snake of the season.

Next day we began our trek west.

Underneath the Arches


From Litchfield it was a couple of hours down the track to Douglas Daly Conservation Park - with a thermal pool, an interesting swimming hole near the arches, more warm days and less people...another relaxing couple of days!

Lazing at Litchfield

How things change! Fifteen years ago we camped at Litchfield National Park. I don't remember sealed roads, clearly defined camping areas, and fenced off areas at the camp sites and tourist spots. I don't remember so many people either. No matter where we went they were there...and lots of them!



Buley Rock Hole was crowded. Hard to find a place to park, let alone relax in the water.
Florence Falls and Wangi Falls were like town swimming pools on a hot day. Bus groups came and went, day visitors checked out the environs and campers lazed around the water.

It is not hard to understand why its popular. All the sites are easy to access, it is a short drive from Darwin, and there are no estuarine crocs (a.k.a. 'salties') in the waterways during the dry.


Add good swimming holes and warm/hot days are where else would you rather be?

Sydney Harbour x10!

It's man made, about 40 years old, and massive.

Lake Argyle is the key to the Ord river irrigation area and is huge. Without going on a $100 boat ride you only see a little of this lake, but for us that was enough.

Built in the 60's this lake/dam (or is it dam lake? Sounds better when you say it) is a remarkable work of engineering.

We spent our days looking and lazing, and celebrated Beth's birthday in a style to which we have become accustomed - cheaply!